Beekeeping isn't a set-it-and-forget-it hobby. Your bees need different things at different times of year, and knowing what to do — and when — is the difference between a thriving colony and a dead one. This month-by-month calendar gives you a framework for your first few years. Adjust the timing based on your local climate and conditions.
Note: This calendar is written for temperate North American climates (USDA zones 5-8). If you're in the deep South or far North, shift timelines by 2-4 weeks accordingly.
January: Plan and Prepare
What's happening in the hive: The bees are clustered tightly, eating through their honey stores to stay warm. The queen may begin laying a small amount of brood toward the end of the month.
Your tasks:
- Order bees (packages or nucs) from a local supplier — they sell out fast
- Order or assemble equipment: hive bodies, frames, foundation
- Read or re-read your beekeeping reference book
- Attend your local beekeeping association's winter meeting
- On mild days (above 40°F), do a quick heft test — lift the back of the hive to check weight. If it feels light, consider emergency feeding with a sugar candy board
Do NOT: Open the hive. Breaking the cluster seal in cold weather can kill the colony.
February: Final Preparations
What's happening: The queen is increasing her egg laying. The cluster is expanding, and the colony is consuming stores more quickly.
Your tasks:
- Confirm your bee order
- Assemble and paint any new woodenware
- Check stored equipment for wax moth damage
- Begin feeding 1:1 sugar syrup on warm days if the hive is light on stores
- Clean and repair your bee suit and gear
March: Spring Awakening
What's happening: Brood rearing is ramping up. Bees are making cleansing flights on warm days. Early pollen sources (willows, maples, dandelions) are becoming available.
Your tasks:
- First full inspection when temps consistently hit 55-60°F
- Verify the queen is alive and laying (look for eggs and young larvae)
- Check food stores — feed 1:1 syrup if less than 2 frames of honey remain
- Clean the bottom board of dead bees and debris
- Remove mouse guards and entrance reducers if using them
- Remove any winter wrapping or insulation
Watch for: Signs of disease (spotty brood pattern, foul smell, discolored larvae).
April: Growth and Expansion
What's happening: The colony is growing rapidly. Nectar and pollen are flowing. The population is exploding.
Your tasks:
- Inspect every 7-10 days
- Watch for swarm cells (queen cells on the bottom of frames) — this is peak swarm season
- Add a second brood box when the first is 70-80% full
- Continue feeding if nectar flow hasn't started
- Install new packages or nucs (this is the prime time)
- Consider doing a varroa mite count — a Varroa Easy Check makes this simple
May: Swarm Season
What's happening: Colony population is at or near its peak. Nectar flow is strong. Swarm impulse is high.
Your tasks:
- Inspect weekly — swarm prevention is your top priority
- Add honey supers with a queen excluder when both brood boxes are full
- Provide ventilation — prop open the outer cover slightly or add an upper entrance
- Stop feeding once nectar flow is strong (you don't want sugar syrup in your honey)
- If you see charged queen cells, make a split or add space immediately
June: Honey Flow
What's happening: The main nectar flow is on. Bees are filling supers with honey. The colony is at maximum workforce.
Your tasks:
- Add additional honey supers as needed — always stay ahead of the bees
- Inspect every 10-14 days (less frequently than spring — avoid disturbing foraging)
- Ensure adequate ventilation to help bees cure honey
- Monitor for swarm cells (still possible early in the month)
Enjoy: This is when beekeeping is at its most magical. Watch the entrance — you'll see bees returning loaded with pollen in every color.
July: Mid-Season Assessment
What's happening: Nectar flow may begin to slow depending on your region. Bees are capping honey in the supers.
Your tasks:
- Do a mid-season varroa mite count (sugar roll or alcohol wash)
- Check honey supers — harvest any that are fully capped (80%+ capped cells)
- Ensure water sources are available nearby
- Watch for robbing behavior from other colonies or wasps
August: Harvest and Treat
What's happening: Nectar flow is ending in many areas. The colony is beginning to contract. Varroa mite populations are peaking.
Your tasks:
- Harvest honey — leave at least 60 lbs for the bees to overwinter (roughly a full deep box)
- Treat for varroa mites immediately after pulling honey supers. This is the single most critical management action of the year. Apivar strips are effective and easy for beginners (97-99% efficacy, 6-week treatment)
- Begin fall feeding with 2:1 sugar syrup (2 parts sugar to 1 part water) to help bees build winter stores
- Reduce entrances to prevent robbing
September: Winter Prep Begins
What's happening: The queen is reducing her laying rate. The colony is raising "winter bees" — longer-lived bees that will carry the colony through to spring.
Your tasks:
- Continue fall feeding until bees stop taking syrup
- Verify varroa treatment is working — do a follow-up mite count
- Combine weak colonies with strong ones (two weak colonies don't make a strong one)
- Check that the queen is present and laying
- Remove any empty honey supers
October: Winterization
What's happening: Brood rearing is slowing significantly. The colony is clustering on cool nights.
Your tasks:
- Final inspection — verify adequate honey stores (heft test: the hive should feel heavy)
- Install mouse guards to prevent rodents from moving in
- Add entrance reducers
- In cold climates, wrap hives with insulation or tar paper
- Ensure upper ventilation — moisture kills more colonies than cold. A small notch in the inner cover or a moisture quilt works well
- Tilt the hive slightly forward so rain and condensation drain out
November: Leave Them Be
What's happening: The cluster is formed. Bees are consuming stores slowly.
Your tasks:
- Quick external check only — listen at the entrance for a healthy hum
- Make sure the entrance isn't blocked by dead bees or snow
- Place a windbreak if your hive is in an exposed location
- Clean and store your equipment for winter
- Order next year's supplies during early-bird sales
Do NOT: Open the hive. The cluster must stay intact.
December: Reflect and Plan
What's happening: The colony is in deep winter cluster. Minimal activity.
Your tasks:
- Review your inspection notes from the season — what went well? What would you change?
- Plan for next season: Do you want to expand? Split? Try a different hive style?
- Attend winter beekeeping workshops and lectures
- Build or repair woodenware
- Read a new beekeeping book — Beekeeping for Gardeners is a great second-year read
Key Dates to Remember
| When | What | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Jan-Feb | Order bees | Suppliers sell out by March |
| March-April | First inspection + install bees | Confirm queen is alive; get new colonies started |
| April-May | Swarm watch | You'll lose half your bees if they swarm |
| June-July | Add supers + mite count | Maximize honey harvest; catch mite problems early |
| August | Harvest + treat mites | Most critical month — mite treatment timing determines winter survival |
| October | Winterize | Moisture and starvation are the top winter killers |
Track Your Season
The best beekeepers keep detailed records. After every inspection, note what you saw, what you did, and what you plan to do next. Over time, your notes become your most valuable resource — you'll start to see patterns and anticipate problems before they happen.
Start tracking your hives for free with Beekeeping Central's hive tracker. Log inspections, monitor health, and build a complete history of your colonies.
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